The 1930s Travel Memoir of Patrick Leigh Fermor in Vienna
Vienna has always been a city filled with visitors, and many of them have left behind written memories in journals, letters, and books. If you want to experience 1930s Vienna through the eyes of a traveler, there’s no better guide than Patrick Leigh Fermor—better known as Paddy—one of the greatest travel writers of the 20th century.
In December 1934, at the age of 19, Paddy made a bold decision: he would walk from London to Constantinople. By the time he reached Vienna two months later, he had already experienced far more than he had imagined—sleeping in barns and hayricks, dining with barons, and drinking with everyone he met while discussing history, Shakespeare, art, and folk songs.
Patrick Leigh Fermor’s Arrival in Vienna
In February 1935, Paddy arrived in Vienna, completely broke. The city was in turmoil, shaken by civil war. Looking for a place to spend the night, he asked a soldier for directions and was taken to a Salvation Army shelter, where he met an unusual companion—Konrad, a man who spoke English in a peculiar style, having learned it mostly from reading Shakespeare.
The next day, they went together to the British Consulate, where Paddy had hoped to collect a small monthly allowance sent from home. But no money had arrived. Seeing his disappointment, Konrad reassured him:
“Be not downcast, my dear young. We must take counsel.”
And so, they devised a plan—Paddy would knock on doors and offer to sketch portraits in exchange for a few shillings. They headed to the Mariahilf district, an area that was neither too rich nor too poor—Konrad’s carefully chosen territory.
Viennese Hospitality and a Time of Gifts
At first, Paddy’s plan seemed unlikely to work. But then, after an initial moment of confusion, he found himself being welcomed inside:
“My dear sir! Please come in! Gretl! Bring a glass of wine and a slice of cake! There! Sit down! A cigar?”
Soon, he was sitting comfortably in an armchair, surrounded by warm hospitality. His sketches may have been mediocre, but what truly mattered was the conversation, the storytelling, and the shared moments over wine and cigars. Among his hosts were a retired admiral, an Anglophile baron, and many other fascinating characters.
This world—a Europe where strangers welcomed travelers into their homes with such generosity—would never be the same after World War II.
A Time of Gifts – A Journey Through a Vanished Europe
Patrick Leigh Fermor later immortalized this extraordinary journey in his book A Time of Gifts, widely regarded as one of the greatest travel books ever written. It captures the magic of 1930s Europe, making it a perfect read for anyone who loves history, adventure, and travel.
We invite you to follow the steps of Patrick and explore Vienna with us on one of our guided tours. If you want to get to know more fascinating personalities, consider checking our “In the footsteps of greatness” tour as well.
